Florida's great west

Leave the famous bits of Florida behind and head west to Pensacola for culture, sublime food and fantastic beaches

Words: Sandy Cadiz-Smith

The charming Floridian Gulf Coast city of Pensacola boasts a vibrant tapestry woven between sun-kissed shores and historical streets. It’s both the most westerly city in Florida and the first European settlement in the United States – and its past feels ever-present. This is a place with layers, including Spanish, French and Creole, all leaving their own unique imprints.

Here, stately buildings and cobbled lanes whisper tales of old-time settlers and sailors, while colourful galleries, playful pelican sculptures and eclectic shops speak to the city’s flourishing creative spirit. The food scene, too, tells a delicious story. Glorious Gulf seafood, Southern comfort food and bold international flavours come together on a single plate. And the beaches? They are some of the most breathtaking we have ever laid eyes on.

Florida's great west — Pensacola has some of the best beaches we’ve ever seen – and there’s so much to explore

Our adventure begins, as all the best ones do, by the sea. The moment we arrive at the Pensacola Beach Resort, there’s a gentle exhale. Our room is light and airy, with doors that open out onto a balcony overlooking miles of soft, sugar-white sand and a sea that changes colour with the sun. The blues and greens are so vivid they look brushed on by hand. There’s salt in the air, warmth on our skin, and that rare sense of having nowhere else to be. Not for a while, anyway.

Morning dawns bright and brilliant, and we’re ready to explore. First stop: the Gulf Islands National Seashore, where we wander through Fort Pickens, a hulking, pre-Civil War fortress once home to Union troops, and later, Apache leader Geronimo. The weight of history hangs thick in the brick walls, and yet just outside, nature is doing its gentle, calming work.

This unspoilt park is full of winding, scenic trails fringed with trees and swaying grasses that lead to untouched beaches. We pause to watch the legendary aerial acrobatic jets, the Blue Angels, cut across the sky in heart-racing, high-speed formation. It’s loud, it’s bold, and it’s pure Pensacola. While we’re talking aviation, the National Naval Aviation Museum just down the road is one of the largest and most immersive aviation museums in the world and is home to over 150 beautifully restored aircraft.

Pensacola is also the winter training home for American Magic, the US America’s Cup syndicate. So unsurprisingly a lot centres around water in this seaside heaven. There are plenty of opportunities to swim in the warmth of the Gulf, snorkel around the reefs or go paddleboarding.

We take a slower route, setting sail with Condor Sailing Adventures, an intimate experience on board a rare racing trimaran with room for just six guests. As we glide across the bay enveloped in its tranquility, dolphins play around us and time seems to stand still.

It’s the kind of place that invites you to linger but there’s more to explore beyond the shoreline and it’s time to move Downtown, just a 15-minute drive away. We’re staying at the elegant boutique hotel Lily Hall conveniently located on the edge of the Downtown action.

Downtown is centred around the beautifully preserved and vibrant Palafox Street (regularly named one of the best in America). Here, the Historic Pensacola Village, America’s First Settlement Trail and the Pensacola Museum of History bring the city’s past to life. Meanwhile, the streets buzz with independent shops, welcoming cafés, buzzing bars and a truly impressive lineup of restaurants.

This is handy, because all this exploring and salty air works up a healthy appetite. Pensacola’s food scene is flourishing – from easy-going beachside bites to sophisticated seafood spots and innovative fine dining. It is one of the unexpected highlights of our trip.

There are many unexpected high points. One moment we’re strolling the waterfront, sea breeze in our hair, the next we’re tucking into just-caught snapper, the freshest of oysters, blackened shrimp with creamy, cheesy grits and the legendary local crab cakes. We’re drifting through shady lanes lined with oak trees and wrought iron balconies, dipping into shops and cafés filled with local treasures and wondering how this place has managed to stay such a well-kept secret.

Pensacola may not shout about itself like some of Florida’s flashier destinations. But it is authentic, uncrowded, unspoilt and quietly dazzling. There’s history around every corner, soul in every bite, and the kind of warm Southern welcome that stays with you long after you’ve left. And it’s just waiting for you to discover it.

* You can fly to Pensacola with Virgin Atlantic. Find out what to do and see in Pensacola at visitpensacola.com